INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN DRAFTING

LECTURE NOTES ON PATTERN DRAFTING

Course: Fashion Design & Garment Construction
Level: Beginner – Intermediate
Duration: Flexible
Instructor:

1.0 INTRODUCTION TO PATTERN DRAFTING

Pattern drafting is the process of creating templates (patterns) from body measurements, used for cutting fabric in garment construction. It is the foundation of professional dressmaking and tailoring.

Patterns act as blueprints, guiding the shape, fit, and structure of a garment.

1.1 Importance of Pattern Drafting

• Ensures accurate fit

• Reduces fabric waste

• Gives professional finishing

• Enhances creativity in garment design

• Makes mass production easier

• Helps in standardizing sizes

2.0 BASIC TERMINOLOGIES IN PATTERN DRAFTING

2.1 Pattern

A paper template representing each part of the garment (front, back, sleeves, collar).

2.2 Block/Sloper

A basic pattern without design details. It is used as a foundation for creating styled patterns.

2.3 Ease

Extra allowance added to body measurements for comfort and movement.

2.4 Dart

A fold sewn into fabric to remove excess and create shape around the bust, waist, or hips.

2.5 Grainline

Direction of the fabric yarns. It affects drape, stretch and overall fit.

2.6 Seam Allowance

Extra width added to the pattern edges for stitching (usually 1–1.5 cm).

2.7 Notches

Small marks on patterns to guide joining of pieces correctly.

3.0 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR PATTERN DRAFTING

Tool	Function
Tape Measure	Taking body measurements
Pattern Paper	Drafting templates
Rulers (Straight, Curve, French curve)	Accurate lines & curves
Pencils/Markers	Marking
Pattern Weights	Holding paper in place
Scissors (Paper & Fabric)	Cutting
Set Square	Creating right angles
Awl/Pin	Marking dart points
Hip Curve	Shaping hip and armhole lines

4.0 BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR PATTERN DRAFTING

4.1 Basic Body Measurements

• Bust / Chest

• Waist

• Hip

• Shoulder

• Back width

• Neck circumference

• Armhole depth

• Sleeve length

• Bust point (Nipple to Nipple)

• Dress length

• Trouser length (if applicable)

4.2 Rules for Taking Measurements

• Use a flexible tape measure

• Take measurements over fitted clothing

• Tape should not be too tight or loose

• Record measurements immediately

• The customer should stand straight

• 5.0 PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN DRAFTING

5.1 Balance

Ensures the garment hangs properly on the body.

5.2 Proportion

Correct relationship between body parts (e.g., waist to hip).

5.3 Fit

Final garment must be comfortable, functional and aesthetically pleasing.

6.0 STEPS TO DRAFT A BASIC BODICE BLOCK

6.1 Required Measurements

• Bust

• Waist

• Shoulder

• Back width

• Armhole depth

• Bust point

6.2 Procedure (Front & Back Bodice)

Step 1: Draw a Vertical Rectangle

• Width = ¼ bust + ease

• Length = Bodice length

Step 2: Mark Key Lines

• Neckline

• Shoulder line

• Bust line

• Armhole depth

• Waist line

Step 3: Draft Neckline

• Standard: 3 inches width × 3 inches depth (adjust according to design)

Step 4: Draft Shoulder & Slope

• Shoulder = measurement ÷ 2

• Drop shoulder by 1 inch for slope

Step 5: Draft Armhole

• Draw armhole curve using French curve

• Ensure smooth shaping between shoulder and bust line

Step 6: Draw Dart

• Locate bust point

• Create 1-inch dart on waist line for shaping

Step 7: Draft Waist Line

• Use waist measurement ÷ 4 + dart

Step 8: Seam Allowance

• Add 1–1.5 cm around edges

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7.0 BASIC SKIRT PATTERN DRAFTING

Required Measurements

• Waist

• Hip

• Skirt length

Procedure

1. Draw rectangle:

   • Width = ¼ hip + ease

   • Length = Skirt length

2. Mark hip line (7–9 inches down from waist).

3. Shape waist by adding darts.

4. Add seam allowances and hem.

8.0 BASIC SLEEVE DRAFTING

Steps

1. Draw vertical line equal to sleeve length.

2. Mark bicep line (cap height).

3. Shape sleeve cap using curve ruler.

4. Add elbow and wrist measurements.

5. Add seam allowances.

9.0 TYPES OF PATTERNS

1. Basic Block Patterns

• Bodice block

• Skirt block

• Trouser block

• Sleeve block

2. Manipulated/Created Patterns

• Princess line

• Kimono

• Raglan

• Peplum

• A-line dress

• Flared skirts

• Off-shoulder tops

• Collar variations

10.0 PATTERN ALTERATION TECHNIQUES

• Adding fullness

• Reducing fullness

• Slashing and spreading

• Pivot method

• Dart manipulation

• Fitting adjustments (bust, waist, hips)

11.0 PATTERN MARKINGS

• Grainline

• Notches

• Fold line

• Centre front/back

• Dart points

• Seam allowance

• Cutting line

12.0 PATTERN CUTTING & TEST FITTING

After drafting:

1. Cut out patterns on paper

2. Transfer to fabric (or calico for testing)

3. Join using loose stitches

4. Fit on dress form or client

5. Make amendments

6. Cut final fabric

13.0 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS IN PATTERN DRAFTING ROOM

• Handle scissors safely

• Keep tools organized

• Avoid sharp edges

• Maintain proper posture while drafting

• Ensure good lighting for accuracy

• Keep floor clean to avoid slips

14.0 SUMMARY

Pattern drafting is a vital skill in fashion design. It requires accuracy, creativity, and understanding of body proportions. Mastering pattern drafting allows designers to create well-fitted, stylish, and professional garments.

15.0 ASSIGNMENT / CLASS EXERCISE

1. Draft a basic bodice block using standard measurements.

2. Draft a straight skirt pattern with waist darts.

3. Manipulate a dart to create a princess seam style.